THE ODDITIES AND MISCELLANY POST

CHIMNEY SWEEPS
There is an annual gathering of chimney sweeps in the local valley and several references to them as we walked around the area -- didn't manage the museum though - things are shutting down now the summer is over.  Nice idea though.

Santa Maria Maggiore, Druogno Malesco Toceno, Craveggia, Villette, and Re: the several chimneys sprouting on the roofs of stone smoke in the winter and tell the stories of a profession now almost disappeared, the one of the sweeps. In Santa Maria Maggiore a museum shows their evidence, and recalls the years when the Vigezzo people were forced to emigrate in search of fortune, as chimney sweeps, both in Italy, since 1300, and in Europe since 1600. The museum in the park of Villa Antonia collects the tools of this job and photographs and testimonials. In the migration were involved especially the children, whose frail figure allowed an agile climbing in the narrow passages to be swept. Many children left home when they were 6, 7 years old. Some bakeries now sweeten these bitter memories churning out the “kisses of chimney sweeps”, typical biscuits of the place.

MUSHROOM GATHERING TIME

Every year in the Dolomites, Pyrennees and now here, we arrive at fungi time - passing loads of people roaming the woods and baskets of the produce outside local shops.  We met this couple one day on the top of a mountain with their afternoon harvest.  Those mushrooms are HUGE.

ALESSI


Passed the Alessi factory with a factory shop - geeeorgeous designer stuff - but still couldn't afford the prices of £30 for a bottle opener.  Even the miniature kettles and lemon squeezers were more than we would pay for a non-designer one!

Nice looking though.






LIVING IN REMOTER VILLAGES THAN BECK HEAD

Getting around the villages looks like a major problem with narrow alleys and windy windy roads up to the village - but where there's a will there is a way.  Helicopters bring in and take out building materials and rubble, little freight cable car trolleys haul goods in and out, if no cars can get up, and these little helpers and miniature tractors and snow ploughs are more innovative ways of living.





THIS YEARS HOME- ALWAYS AN ODDITY TO NON CAMPERS

ISOLA BELLA

Isola Bella (lit. 'beautiful island') is one of the Borromean Islands of Lago Maggiore in north Italy. The island is situated in the Borromean Gulf 400 metres from the lakeside town of Stresa. Isola Bella is 320 metres long by 400 metres wide and is entirely occupied by the Palace and its Italianate garden.  Wikipedia - see entry for more historical details

The classic beauty spot and must do on Lake Maggiore and another revisit after 50 years - more market stalls and more visitors, but gardens essentially the same and the palace, I am sure is exactly the same.  Not that I remember the palace - perhaps I was bored or it wasn't open to the public then.  Tourism season definitely winding down and the crowds were nothing like they would have been  few weeks ago - apparently the water taxis and ferries are packed and the island is overrun with visitors.

As you will see from the photos though, I managed quite a few without another person in them - an achievment of sorts I think!

The Palace as you approach by ferry - perfect Italian lakes day





Gardens from all angles with terraces, sculptures and views in all directions


 

Inside the palace - grottoes on the whole of the lower floors lined with tufa and pebbles and now housing further priceless treasures to the ones that are scattered throughout the building - and we only saw a fraction of the rooms.   The grottoes being a nice cool space in the heat of the summer.

The Borromea family still use the palace and island in the summer - must be a bit of a pest to have all these damn tourists milling around!

ITALIAN "HIKERS REST"

Have been doing more wooded walks in the local mountains - plenty of the following

Remote villages with lovely squares

Little alleyways with old and new balconies

 However small there is always a bar for cold drinks/ice cream/coffee or all 3

 Ancient fountains around the villages and always a communal wash house - many of which are still used for washing and gossip!

And every village, no matter how small has its church.  

26000 churches in Italy - we have been to 0.1% in last few weeks.

 And always the views

And then we came across the Italian Hikers Rest, along the old  mule footpath, like our BH bridleway - serve your own drinks and sup them at these picnic tables - just like our BH venue!  Different views but same ethos.  And the spookiest thing is that, like Charlie, the guy running it, was a sculptor who had placed many of his wares around the garden.  We expect to see the same from Charlie, with tours of the workshop and samples around the orchard!

 

 Think I prefer Charlies work!

ITALIAN GARDEN

Lots of gardens to visit but we were recommended this one, Taranto Gardens, by friends Lin and Rob - nice one!  Pictures below self explantory and if you want the history see this link.  Filthy rich Scots person basically with interest in travelling and plants - and you have this:

VICTORIA CRUZIANA

The genus Victoria, original of the areas of the big rivers of South America (the Amazon, Paranà),counts the specimens of the biggest dimensions of the family of water lilies. During the periods of greatest vegetative activity of the plant (June–July), the leaves almost reach 2 m. in diameter. Used to carry babies on in native Amazon.

 

 More gardeny things next week with a visit to top attraction - Isola Bella - another 50 year on memory!

LOCARNO REVISITED - 50 YEARS ON

I had my my first Swiss trip to Locarno in the early 1960's with Mum and Dad - it must have taken months of organisation with letters to and from hotels, looking up train timetables and flights.  Although I recall that the Swiss travel service in London was a major source of help whenever Dad was in London on business. - the Swiss efficiency continues to flourish.  Instead of a long and tortuous road through the towns on the way to where we are staying - they just tunnel underneath and whisk the hordes of sun hungry Germans, Swiss and the odd (very odd - only seen 2 Brit cars in 3 weeks here) Brit from cold to sunny Lakes.  If only our own Lakes had this weather (and not just 2013 summer!) ............  But then none of us could afford to live there or want to, due to even bigger hordes of tourists.

Anyway - I relived my holiday memories when we drove half an hour to Locarno along the busy coast road - goodness knows what it is like in July and August.

We took this funicular up from the town, past the hotel we had stayed at (which may or may not now be a block of flats - distant memory!) and arrived at the major pilgrimage church - Madonna Del Sasso

 I remembered it being a lot less bright inside - and it seems it was repainted  in 1980's so it was probably still in medieval mode when I was there.  But it still had hundreds of these silver hearts and other momentoes in thanks for the miracles that she has performed.  I was so impressed by those at the time!

There was a big sign saying it was the start of the pilgrimage to Santiago to Compestela - bit of a long way to walk to Northern Spain.

 

Then we repeated what would have been my first cable car and then chair lift (Mum and I were petrified!) to the top of the mountain overlooking Locarno - this brilliant viewing platform suspended into space was a definite new installation!

 But I guess the views were the same and we walked on for an hour to the very top for spectacular views across the Alps and Italy.

 

WOODED VALLEYS AND REMOTE VILLAGES

A short way behind Cannobio is a great wooded valley with scattered remote ancient villages.  A half hour drive up windy and hair raising roads, park up at one of the villages and then walk for hours up and down gorges, hillsides, rivers and through abandoned hamlets.  Endless possibilities for walks, high and low level - a few photos to give an idea.

Not a lot more to say really!

DELAYED BLOG

A little late in starting this blog - 2 weeks gone already so a bit of catching up to do.  Had thought it not worth repeating past glories of the Italian Lakes - but new Lake, new stories, new views, new experiences.  Of necessity a brief recap with short comments - but a flavour of the area and the travels.

 A stop in France in the Alsace wine region in lovely medieval town, Riquehar.  Just a brief stay but looking forward to 2 nights at the B&B and further exploring of the grape vines, stunning old rickety streets, great shopping and perhaps some festivities as it will be middle of grape picking.  A few reminiscences from Graham no doubt from his time as a student grape picker - would recommend you give 1972 vintages a wide berth after tales of bare feet and other unmentionables that appeared to be part and parcel of grape crushing!

View from our campsite at Cannobio, just south of Locarno, on Lake Maggiore on the first day - a bit hazy with accumulated summer smog - to be later swept away after a few days - with a day of violent thunderstorms.  See the difference in the next pictures, before, during and after the rain

The town is just a few minutes walk from the campsite - an idyllic long promenade lined by cafes overlooking people and the lake - we have fallen in love with the place and instead of 2 weeks here and 2 in Lake Como we have decided to stay where we are.  Below are pictures of the prom at night with a market and music, during the Sunday market when it was full of  people, rain and stalls and a typical seat supping our drinks overlooking the mountains and lake

And then there are the hundreds of walks to do within a few miles - the ones straight from the campsite with these views of the town. Our campsite is in the trees at the tip of the penisnsula - great position with plenty of shade from trees and flowering bushes.